3/4/04 - Tempest K6100 X-Y Monitor - It's been 2 weeks of putting in an hour or two a night, installing a Bob Roberts Rebuild kit for this monitor. I installed the regular part of this kit with no problems, as well as the "extra" parts kit. I did notice however that there were a lot of resistors on the High Voltage Section that were burnt, So replaced all the ones I saw that looked bad. I had to look most of them up in the schematics (TMXXX Rev 3) because the discoloration of the resistors made the each color band very hard to read... red looked brown, orange looked brown, violet looked brown, yellow looked brown. HEY! ALL THESE COLORS LOOK BROWN. Well.... not all the colors looked brown, green and blue looked good... but you get the point. R9XX (XXohm) was burnt, but a trip to Radio Shack turned up no matches, the closest I could find was XXXohms (no surprises Radio Shack didn't have what I was looking for,) I made a trip to my local Electronics store (MALCO) with the same results, so I used the XXXohm instead. I figured figuring in the tolerance of the old resistor, it was close enough.

3/6/04 - Tempest K6100 X-Y Monitor - Finally Put my tempest monitor all together. Fired it up.... and nothing. I got High Voltage for a minute, but that's all.... the High Voltage Shut off LED was on, as well as the Spot Killer LED. I adjusted the "HV shut off" Pot and the high voltage came to life. Mental Note: The POT to adjust the High Voltage Shut off is not the same POT that you replace in the Cap Kit, that's the High Voltage. Took me a few times of adjusting the wrong POT to figure out that there are TWO POTs on the board, one is mounted vertically, one horizontally.
Next Problem, the spot killer.... I double-checked all my connections... after all, there are A LOT of connectors on a K6100. Low and behold, here's my problem, I didn't plug in the neck! (Duh!) This time when I turned on the monitor, things looked good, no HV shut off.... no spot killer.... no picture.... Hmmmmmm... Something is still wrong. The monitor appears to be working; it's even making the "Vector noises," but still no picture. I looked over everything and eventually noticed that the heater in the tube was not glowing (no neck glow.) I checked all the fuses on the deflection board, witch were good. I checked all the fused in the bottom of the Tempest machine, those were all good too. Looked at the schematics, there should be 25VAC on pins X and X of the main connector on the deflection board, which also checks ok. There isn't too much in the heater circuit, one diode, two resistors, and two connectors. I tested voltage on the heater. I was getting about 10mV... small drop.... so I tried across the resistor on the neck board (RXXX). Small drop there as well.... then I tried the resistor on the deflection board (R107.) Bingo! I'm loosing about 12Volts there, since the next thing in the circuit is a diode, and 25VAC is coming in, we can safely assume that we should be getting half that in DC... but that should go to the heater, not R107. As I looked at R107 I noticed I had replaced it as part of the "extra parts kit." 1.3Kohm the schematic says it should be a 7.5ohm.... that's a huge difference. So I put a 7.5ohm resistor in its place, and the monitor came to life! And it Looks Awesome!

3/7/04 - Tempest K6100 X-Y Monitor - I posted on the internet newsgroup about my frustrations with R107, I couldn't seem to figure out why all the direction as well as all the guides I found on the internet for repairing K6100's told me to upgrade R107 form a 7.5ohm resistor to a 1.3Kohm. Many thanks to ChrisB and Robb Gonyer for showing me the error of my ways. Apparently I confused R107 for R701! Damn this dyslexia! Looks like it got the better of me. R701 is a 1.3Kohm resistor, 1/4 Watt, the upgrade makes is a 5 Watt. Robb did bring up an interesting point, R701 and R601 are identical circuits, one is for the X deflection, and one is for the Y. The upgrades call for you to change R701 to a higher wattage resistor, but leave R601 the same. The only reason I can think of for this would be the X deflection circuit has to work harder than the Y circuit. (right? X is wider than Y?) But 1/4 watt to a 5 watt.... that's a huge difference. I've never seen either of these two resistors burnt in any of the other K6100's I've worked on, so I'm not worried about them giving out. But just to make sure, I decided instead of replacing R701 with a 1.3Kohm 5 Watt resistor, I replaced both R701 and R601 with a 1.3Kohm 1/2 Watt resistor. Make more sense to me.

3/9/04 - Star Wars K6100 X-Y Monitor deflection board - Installed a Bob Roberts Super Deluxe cap kit in this monitor board (For Arcade Hell.) Everything looked good, and went smoothly. There were some spots in the low voltage section where the traces on the board were lifting due to excessive heat and a previous repair job. Since we're going for reliability here and I don't trust lifted traces, when I put a component in a spot where I had a lifted trace, instead of cutting off the excess lead, I bent it over onto the board. Then soldered it to the next thing connected to that trace. Then I cut off the excess lead from the last soldered spot. Not pretty, but effective. Re-soldered all the connectors pins in case of cold solder joints, then cleaned all fuses and fuse holders with scotch-brite.
I still need to replace all the deflection transistors (Q603, Q604, Q703, Q704). I'm really not fond of the subs that I got with the Bob's Kit, so I'm going to install NTE49's and NTE50's instead (bigger and better transistors.) Same for Q100 in the low voltage section.... I still need to upgrade that to a NTE50.

3/9/04 - Star Wars K6100 X-Y Monitor Picture Tube - Cleaned off the monitor tube with paper towels and water, from past experience I learned not to use any cleaners on the backside of a picture tube. Cleaners are too harsh and will remove the coating on the back. Water and paper towels take forever, but you really don't harm anything. You don't want to soak the monitor, so the paper towel needs to be rung out. DAMP not WET is the rule. I also cleaned the yolk assembly with simple green sprayed onto a paper towel. Most people don't feel it necessary to clean the backside of a monitor... I do it because it's the little things that will dive me crazy! Like I said, most people will skip cleaning the backside of the monitor... but if you do clean one spot... clean the spot where the suction cup for the HV wire goes. DO NOT GET WATER IN THE HOLE. Again, use a DAMP NOT WET cloth and wipe the until clean. The suction cup should be cleaned too.

3/10/04 - Moon Patrol G07 Monitor - Installed a cap kit and flyback in this G07 for Arcade Hell, The monitor worked, but lacked brightness. The monitor board tested good here at my shop, so I figure the tube must be weak. We played with all the brightness and color controls, and then left the game running for an hour or so. Every time we looked at it the monitor looked better and better. Sometimes these weak tubes just need some time to come alive.... If it doesn't brighten up to an acceptable level with in a day or so of use, we'll swap the tube.

3/10/04 - G07 Monitor Chassis - Installed a Cap Kit and Flyback in a G07. Nothing out of the ordinary here.

3/11/04 - G07 Monitor - Not really very technical today, more informational. Working on the K6100 you find a lot of information about other vector monitors.... the G08 and the G05 to be specific, and now that I'm working on a G07.... I got to thinking.... Are there more in the GO_ series? The short answerer is yes. I did a small bit of research (Google) and found that there are no G01's, But there are G02's. They are 25" color raster monitors that came in Missile Command cockpits, Sea Wolf II's, and very few Galaxian machines. Most people say they are VERY unreliable! There are no G03's and G04's. G05's are 19" Vector Monitors that came in many machines, like Asteroids. G07's came in Everything! (Not quite but it feels that way sometimes) G08's are 19" color vectors, that came in Sega Vector Games, These are know to catch on fire.... and are not know for their reliability! There is such a thing as a G09, it might be a computer monitor or it might be a Projector, the site I found it on didn't really say.

3/13/04 - Galaga - Service call to Pembroke MA. - Boy that's a long drive, not as long as last time I went there during rush hour traffic... but never the less, still long. I originally went there to fix this game over a month ago, the customer said the monitor had blacked out vertical lines, and the game would not play. First the monitor seemed to be problem some, I really couldn't tell what the game was doing, because the picture was so bad. I tapped on the monitor chassis with the insulated end of a screwdriver and the picture looked better for a second... I took out the chassis and re-soldered all the connectors. Some of them were noticeably cold. I also used scotchbrite on all the connector pins and inspected all the connectors. When I tried the monitor again, things looked better, but the game wouldn't get out of test mode. I inspected the board and found that most of the legs of the IC chips were very corroded. I started to clean them with scotchbrite, but unfortunately when I removed one of the chips, some of the legs stayed in the socket. Too much corrosion for my liking. I took the boards back to my shop where I cleaned the legs of all the IC chips that were in sockets, and replaced the chip with the broken leg. I even found a second one with two broken legs. Unfortunately they were both NAMCO Custom IC's, which can be a bit expensive to replace.
After replacing the bad IC's and cleaning all the others, I tried the board in my Galaga. The boards Started with no problems. I played a few games and found that sometimes in the middle of a game, the machine would go crazy, sometimes it would fall into test mode, sometimes the bugs would stop their formation and fly in circles.... real weird things. I thought I might need to replace some IC sockets....but when I went to check the connector to see if it was seated properly, I touched and board cage, I felt something strange.... like a vibration, or an electrical shock. I've never had the chance to totally shop this machine, it's playable but needs a lot of work... mostly cosmetic. Still, I have never gone thought it.... As I checked the machine out, I noticed that someone had cut the ground strap that went to the PCB cage. So I hooked it up again. This is the Yellow metal strap that connects to everything metal in the machine (comes from the green wire from the wall plug and goes to the Transformer Case, coin door, control panel, ect.) I touched the PCB cage again, this time no shock. I tried the game again, no problems. Played a few games, no problems. left the game running for a few hours, no problems. I even ran the game for a few hours for the following week, no problems.
When I Went back today and re-installed the boards for this customer, I made sure the ground for the PCB cage was there (It was missing totally). So far no problems, but if these boards should have this problem again, I will replace all the IC sockets.

3/16/04 - Moon Patrol G07 Monitor - Went back to Arcade Hell today to check on the Moon Patrol monitor that lacked brightness. Looks damn good! AtariPatcick left it on for a few hours that day I installed the chassis, as well as a few hours the next day. This monitor defiantly has come alive.

3/16/04 - Star Wars K6100 X-Y Monitor Frame - I cleaned and reassembled this monitor frame today. Looks almost new if I do say so myself. I replaced the frame-mounted transistors too. Sometimes when I remove these transistors I can't believe how little Heat sink compound the manufacturer used. I like to cover the whole backside of the transistor, them put on the mica insulator, then cover the insulator as well. Yes, you do use a lot this way, but in the end YOU KNOW you have good heat transfer.... and keeping these transistors cool, means longer life.
I also like to solder the legs of the transistors to the corresponding wires of the transistor sockets. These seem to get flakey after time. Some people like clean them by running a small file thought the connection points, although this is a pretty good idea, think the best connection is still to solder them on. It's only two legs, so even if you have to remove them afterwards isn't a big deal.

3/17/04 - T2 Pinball - Service Call to North Andover MA. - This customer called to have the gun on their T2 pinball repaired. Seems a ball rolled into the gun, but the gun never moved out from the home position. Thinking ahead I know that Williams probably used a small board with a few High Watt, low ohm resistors to run the gun motor. I also know that these resistors heat up a lot, causing the solder that is holding them onto the board to become cold. Sometimes they even fall off the board totally. Williams mostly used boards like this for there flash lamps. I once worked on an F14 Tomcat where someone must have got sick of these resistors falling off that they glued them onto the boards. I had a few of these boards laying around from a Pinbot playfield I once parted out, so I brought one with me.
When I got there and looked at the machine, sure enough there was a small board with two resistors on it, and one of the leads had broken free. Looks like someone had a similar problem here at one time, The two resistors that are here are in a spot big enough for only one resistor. One lead of the first resistor is soldered to the board, then the second lead is twisted to the first lead of the second resistor, then that resistors second lead is solder to the board. This basically puts the two resistors in Series. The first resistor was a 4.9ohm 5watt, the second was a 5.1ohm 5watt. This make it a 10ohm 5Watt resistor (4.9 + 5.1 = 10) this is expectable, but not my style. The boards I brought with me don't have one this rating, so I'll have to order one. I soldered back the resistors that were there so the game was playable, but told the customer I would cone back and install a the right resistor.
The customer also asked if I could replace the trigger spring for the gun, he wasn't happy with the way it felt. Sometime when he played it the gun would not fire. I checked the switch for the gun, to make sure it was working properly, witch it was. And tried it myself a few time, I notice that when the gun moves from the home position, it hits a switch called the "Mark." This switch tells the game program that the gun is clear the ramp and it is safe to fire the ball. This prevents people from damaging the ramp by shooting it with the ball. The reason the gun was not firing when the customer wanted it to was because they would hit the trigger before the gun hit the mark, since the spring for the trigger is so weak, the trigger switch wasn't deactivating, so the Program thinks that someone tried to fire the ball before the mark, and is holding the trigger in. So it won't fire the ball until the switch opened totally, then closes again.
One spring, one 10ohm resistor on order.

3/16/04 - Star Wars K6100 X-Y Monitor - Everything is ready to go! The High Voltage unit is all rebuilt. I installed the finishing touches to the deflection board by replacing all the deflection transistors (Q603, Q604, Q703, Q704)with NTE49's and NTE50's, as well as upgrading Q100 to a NTE50. Replaced the missing connector on the neck board (XXXXX.) Put it all together and fired it up.... Another Perfect K6100 Monitor!

3/16/04 - Bally Eight Ball Champ Pinball - Service Call to Londonderry NH. -Missing transistor.

3/16/04 - Star Wars K6100 X-Y Monitor -I finally brought the Star Wars K6100 over to Arcade Hell to install, previously I had been testing the monitor in my Tempest. The picture looked excellent, but every time a Tie fighter shot a laser at you, and the screen flashed, the monitor would make a loud "ticking" noise. I watched the back of the monitor and sure enough that ticking noise was a giant spark jumping from the monitor tube to the grounding spring. Looks like the monitor was building up a pretty large static field. Star Wars tends to really exercise a K6100. Checking another K6100 I found that I had put the grounding spring in the wrong place, and it was not touching the back paint part of the monitor. The back paint is conductive and helps to eliminate static build up on the monitor. I repositioned the spring, and the monitor worked fine.

3/24/04 - Bally Joust Pinball - Hyde Park, MA. - Went to Hyde Park today to pick up this joust pinball I bought. Everything went smoothly.

3/27/04 - Capcom Breakshot Pinball - Service Call to Keen NH. - The directions to this service call included "drive off the paved road" and "climb the mountain!" The customer called because the "Ball Save" kicker was not working, plus a few other little things. When I looked at it I found that not only was the "ball save" kicker not working, but the two slingshots and one target bank were also not working. I followed the wiring and found that there was a broken wire at on of the pop bumpers, since all the 50V lines are daisy chained together, this broken wire broke the chain. I soldered it back and all the non-working solenoids started to work except for one of the slingshots. I checked that and sure enough, another broken wire.
Now that the game played I tried to fix a set of drop targets that would not "Stay up" but I found that one target was broken and needed to be replaced, and the other two targets were missing the springs. I don't carry those parts with me, and since this is such a far drive, I took the bank with me, and will ship it back to the customer when I Finnish rebuilding it.
Lastly I cleaned the game up a bit. All the lights in the general Illumination were not lit, at first I suspected, and tested the fuses, but they were all good. So I checked the GI connectors to make sure they where not damaged... good too. So I replaced the two bulbs with new one and they lit up! 4Four boxes of bulbs later, the GI was lit again. Every Light bulb in the GI was burnt out, and I replaced every one of them! I checked all the feature lights too, and then waxed the playfield. The Customer was very happy to have their machine working and looking as good as when they bought it. :)

3/27/04 - Pac-Man Upright - Service Call to Salem NH. - Customer was complaining that after the game warms up, it goes crazy and cannot be played. Since the game had all the original fuse blocks in it, I replaced them all, unfortunately there was no change. So I took the boards back to my shop. I believe on of the character ROMS may be bad. both XX and XX have very corroded legs.

6/19/04 - Bally Future Spa - Service Call to Lee NH. - The customer had previously sent the MPU board, as well as the driver board to a repair shop in Texas to be repaired. The original problem was that the machine had just stopped working, and when the customer went to look at what the problem might be they found that the battery on the MPU board had corroded very badly. The repair shop did a very nice job of repairing the corroded sections, but when installed back in the machine, the pinball just sat there dead. I did a bit of troubleshooting and found that one of the fuses on the power supply board had blown. I replaced the bad fuse and the machine came to life. When the repair shop repaired the corrosion, they replaced the battery by soldering a new one to the original spot on the board. I removed that and installed a remote battery holder so there would never be a problem with corrosion on the board again.

6/19/04 - Bally/Midway Pac Man - Service Call to Lee NH. -A scrambled screen. It looked as if the vertical hold on the monitor was mis-adjusted. I tried to adjust the monitor, but I could not get the problem to go away. I was leaning towards installing a cap kit in the monitor, but then as I looked very carefully to the scrambled graphics, and noticed that the ghosts were the wrong colors (all ghosts were tan.) I re-seated the ROM chips and the two controller boards and the problem went away for a few minutes. So I took the boards back with me to replace all the chip sockets and test back at my shop.

6/19/04 - Sega Frogger - Service Call to Lee NH. -When you turn the machine on, the game comes up and plays, but there is no sound. Instead there is a mind numbing Hum that comes from the speakers. The Frogger boards seem to be exactly the same as bally/midway Galaxian boards, just built by Sega. I once had a set of Ms. Pac Man Boards with a similar problem, and installing a Bob Robberts Pac Man Logic Board kit fixed the problem, so I took the boards back to my shop to install the kit and test the boards.

6/21/04 - Bally Black Pyramid - Service Call to Raymond NH. -This game would start up and pass the self diagnostic test, but when you start a game the switch matrix would not respond, and all coils would all be dead.

6/24/04 - Wurlizer Super Star -After the record would finish playing, the machine would put the record back, then pick the same one again. The XXXXXX switch over the pin bank has failed, and needed to be replaced. See Installing a new XXXXXXX switch in a Wurlizer 3X00 for more details.

7/04/04 - Atari "Centipede" Game Board - Mail in repair- Customer's Centipede game could not be played because the controls were "Crazy." They replaced the trackball with a brand new one but the problem remained. They sent me the boards to test, witch indeed were the problem, placed the board in test mode and got 8 test tones, meaning RAM M5 (2101) was bad. Replace RAM M5 and board worked pefectally.

7/08/04 - Bally "Flash Gordon" Pinball - service call to Bolton MA.-Repaired a very battery acid damaged PCB for this game. Actually received this board in the mail a few weeks ago, repaired it, and then installed it in person.
I cleaned off the corrosion as best I could, using tips from PinballHQ's guide, the neutralized the acid. The ROMs and other chips looked as if they were not affected, just a few small components. When I first tested the board the LED would turn on immediately... no flicker. I decided to jump and trace that lead from ground to a component to a ground that looked good. 15 jumps later things looked pretty good. I tested the board again and it worked perfectly. Installed a new battery pack and installed back into the customerís machine.

8/14/04 - Rock~ola/Antique Aparatus Peacock Jukebox - Service call to "Rock'n Robbin's" Nasuah NH.- Customer complained that the light all went dead, but the machine still played fine. Also, the title strip pages would not turn. I checked the fues for the light, and found the main fuse for the lights had blown. I repleced the fuse and the light worked again. I made sure all the lanps were running with no problmes, and inspected the wirering for the lamps. Everything looked fine, but I did notice that this circuit not only feeds power to the light, but also feeds power to the motors for the color wheels. I made sure that the color weels were running freely and the motors were still in good shape. If these motors get weak, or get jammed, the can draw more current witch could cause the fuse to blow. Since evreything looked good, we dieciced to put in the new fuse and keep an eye on things.
The pages getting stuck turned out to be a bigger problem.... actually It ended up being a few little problems that made the pages not turn. First problem being, that the pages were rubbing on the bottom of the frame for the assembly, causing the pages to stop. The page assembly mounts on a metal bracket with a post on it. This post is used for the height ajustment, loosen the post and it gets higher, tighten the post and it gets lower. When I went to raise it I found that the treads in the brackett were stripped. I installed a new brackett and asjusted the page assembly so the pages would not rub on the frame.
The second problem was the actual title stips them selves. The pages are turned by a small motor, this motor has lever on the end of it, and this lever hits a gear. The gear then moves a belt witch has a gear rack mounted on it. As the gear rack moves down the length of the page assembly, each page it passes hits the gear rack and the page moves. The title stips were made on a computer and not cut to the correct size, so when intalled one or two of them were a bit "bubbled." These bubbles caused each of the following pages to be off a little more, until one of the pages got to the point were the grears on the rack and the page would not align properly causing them to bind. I cut the title stips to fit better and the problem got a little better.
Unfortunatly, after all that one page just kept getting stuck. It was binding the same way as the title strip problem, but there was nothing causing the page to be off. I removed the page and filed down the part that meets the grear rack. Just enough to make it a bit smaller and round off the edges. I reinstalled the page and it worked like a charm.

8/15/04 - AMI "F" Jukebox - service call to Salem NH.- Customer complained that the record pickup arm was stuck half way. Turned out to be that for some reason the mechanisism had switched directions while playing and tryed to place the record back in the tray oposite the direction if had originally. The mechanics of the mech would not allow this so the arm was stuck. I manually backed off the arm by spinning the motor by hand, then set it to place the record back in the right direction. I then cleaned and adjusted the contacts on the Mech. to hopefully prevent this from happening again.

8/16/04 - Bally "Playboy" Pinball MPU - Customer Drop Off- Customer was compaining that the LED lit up and stayed on... no flicker. Istalled it in my Xenon, and sure enough the LED lit and that was it. This board looked good, no corosion on it and it didn't look like there were any previose repair jobs done to it. I checked the IC socketts and replaced a few that looked questionable. No change. I removed all the socketted chips from the board, and tested the three basic chips needed to get the first initial flach from the MPU board. U9 (CPU), and U11 (PIA) tested good, but I could not test U6 (ROM) in my board because the jumper setting for the ROMs were different. I put the chips back in and tested the board again, the LED still stayed on. I checked the Jumper settings and found that they were all wrong, set for a different ROM set. I checked the numbers on the ROMs and found that they were indeed Playboy ROMs. So I set the Jumpers to those roms. I tryed the the board again, and got the first flicker from the LED.
I inserted the rest of the ROMs to try and get the First Flash from the MPU, unfortunatly all I could get was the flicker. I checked the jumpers again, but they all looked good. I figured one of the ROMs must be bad, so I ordered a new set of ROMs and reset the jumpers to work with the new ROMs. I tested the Board again with the new roms and got not only the flicker, but the first flash as well.
I inserted U7 (6810) and got the second flash no problem. Then I inserted U8 (5101) and tested the board again for the third flash. No third flash, replaced U8 (5101) and tested the board again and got the third flash.
Lastly I inserted U10 (6821 PIA), trying to the fouth flash, when I tested the board again I didn't even get the third flash. Removed U10, got the third flash again. I replaced U10, and got the fourth flash as well as the rest of the flashes. The MPU finally came to life.

8/16/04 - Atari "Cenipede" game board - Customer Drop Off-Customer bought a Centipede game from a local sale, the monitor was dead but played blind. The customer bought a new monitor, intalled it, and the game worked fine for an hour, then ther screen scrambled and the game became unplayable. I tested the Main Logic Board im My Centipede, and found all it did was have a scrampled screen, test moded would not run, and the watchdog reset would not pulse. Looking at the shematics I determined the CPU need a signal from U4L (74LS107) to run, I replaced U4L (74LS107) and tested the board. The Game started right up. I played a few games and the boards worked fine, so I left the game on to test the boards, About 45 minutes later, the game froze and the audio went crazy. I turned the game off and back on again, and the game came back up with the original problem. I am out of 74LS107s so I'll have to order more before I can troublehoot this problem any further.

8/16/04 - Bally "Embryon" Pinball MPU - This Embryon MPU would not got throught the entire diagnostic flash sequence, somtimes it would do 1 flash, sometime 3... but never all seven. I replaced all the IC socketts, and the board workes great now.

8/27/04 - Atari "Centipede" Game board - Another Centipede board, this one is from a cocktail table I'm going to restore someday, I figured since I was repairing other Centipede boards I should dig this one out and get a head start on it. This board was in pretty sorry shape, it was missing IC chip C3 (CO12294-01 POKEY) and on of the ROM chips had a bent pin that was not sitting in that chips socket. I removed the ROM and straightened the bent leg, and carefully reinserted it in the socket. Then I installed a new UX (CO12294-01 POKEY.) When I first tried the board all I got was a blank white screen, I switched the game into test mode and go one tone, meaning H2 (2114 RAM) was bad. I replaced the H2 and tried the board again. This time I got the game up, with some distorted graphics. The test mode gave me three tones; meaning K7 (2101 RAM) was bad. I replace that RAM and tried it again, I still got distorted graphics, but this time they looked slightly better. Now I got four tones from test mode... K5 (2101 RAM.) I replaced that and tried the board one last time. This time the graphics looked great! I played a few games, and found no problems, so I left the game on to give the boards a workout. Unfortunately after 20 minutes the game went dead, just a blank screen. I let the boards cool off, but when I tried them again they were still dead. I'll have to troubleshoot this more another time.

8/27/04 - Atari "Battle Zone" Video Game - Picked up this Battle Zone from Arcade Hell. The monitor only works when you tap on the connectors, so I assume it has cold solder joints. When I get around to restoring this machine I'll rebuild the entire monitor. After the Game has been on for a while it like to go dead, so the Power Supply will need to be rebuilt as well.

8/29/04 - Gottlieb "Bronco" EM Pinball - Service Call North Andover MA. - The customer has owned this game for 30 years, and it was in excellent shape. They were complaining that the machine needed a few problems worked out. When I first turned on the machine the Motor just ran, and would not stop. Seems the score reels would not reset, I tried resetting the score reels by hand, and set them all to 0, but the motor still ran. While the motor was running I pushed in the relays for the score reset and the numbers reset no problem, so I figured the contacts on the motor cam may be dirty. I cleaned all the contacts on the motor cam, and when I went to check their adjustment I found that the set of contacts for the reset were way out of alignment. I adjusted the set of contacts, and tried the machine again, this time all the numbers reset no problem.
Then next problem I found was when the ball drained, the player and ball in play would not advance. I checked the stepping unit for the ball advance and everything looked and worked fine, so I checked the relay for that stepping unit. Upon careful inspection I found that something pushed on the relay too hard and had knocked on of the contact blades for the correct spot on the actuator. I placed the contact blade in the correct position, and the ball advance started working.
The last problem I had with the machine is it was stuck on three players, not matter I checked the stepping unit for the player select and found that the reset spring for the can arm didn't have enough tension on it, and got tangled up around the arm, bending it all out of shape. The Stepping unit needs a new spring to work, so I'll find a replacement spring and return to install it.

8/31/04 -"Pac Man" Arcade Game - Eratic destorted video, jiggled the Sync Buss controler card and everything would then look fine. Replaced the sockett for the card, game worked great. Replaced all the IC sockets for reliability.

9/01/04 -Seeburg "STD160" Jukebox - Service Call to Gloucester MA. Customer said the machine is not playing the "A" sides of the records. Cleaned Record Selection contacts. made sure needles were in tight, could not get machine to repeat problem.

9/01/04 -Bally "Dr. Dude" Pinball - Service Call to Gloucester MA.Ball Shooter Tip has broken off and shot inside machine, ordered and installed new shooter tip.

9/02/04 -Seeburg "3W1" Remote Jukebox Power Supply - Started this project I've been putting of for a while. One of the Johnny Rocketts I do work for had an old home made power supply and selection reciver running all their wallboxes. The Store originally used a Seeburg Hide Away Unit to run the wallboxes, but someone convinced them that a code reader and a CD player were the way to go. So the hide away units were all done away with and replaced with these Power Supply/selection recivers that hook up to a CD Player. Unfortunatly the individual that built these "Black Boxes" Dissapeared from the face of the earth. The one in this Johnny Rocketts has been on it's last leg for a while, and just recently caught on fire. This is what one of these mysteriouse Black Boxes Look Like: Outside / Inside
If anyone has to work on one of these and needs the programing instructions they can be found here.
The main design flaw with this power supply/selection reciver is there is one small transformer supplying 24VAC to 16 machines. When Seeburg built the machines the ran up to 4 on one transformer, then you needed to use an axilary tranformer for the next group of 4. After years of stress running 16 machines the tranformer gave out and caught on fire. Another design flaw was if one machine shorted out for any reason, ALL the machines would go down, as opposed to loosing a group of 4.
So I have been working on a new power supply/selection reciver for them. For the selection reciver I chose a CDAdaptor Model WP200e. It's programable and just plugs into the CD Change Johnny Rocketts already owns. For the Power Supply I had to come up with something on my own. Since we have 16 machines to power, I chose to do it the same way Seeberg did. I got 4 transformers and wired them together. I put a circit breaker on each transformer, so if one machine shorted out, you would only loose a group of 4. I mounted the transformers and Circut Breakers on an aluminim project box and started some of the wiriring. I'll do more another time

9/04/04 -Midway "Pac-Man" Video Game - Service Call to Lee NH. - Installed boards I had previously repaired at home. Game worked, no problems!

9/04/04 - Sega "Frogger" Video Game - Service Call to Lee NH. - Installed boards I had previously repaired at home, boards continued the loud hum from audio. As I inspected the machine I noticed that many of the grounds in the game had been cut. I ran a few jumper wires and it did quiet down the the hum, but never eliminated it totally. This project will have to wait for another day, until then I disconected the speaker. (Temporary fix I guess)

9/04/04 - Gottlieb "Jet Spin" Pinball - Service Call to Lee NH. - Game would not reset, motor would just run. The "Thousands" score reel was not resetting. Cleaned all the contacts on the score reel's relay and the machine reset no problem.

9/04/04 - Bally "Rolling Stones" Pinball - Service Call to Lee NH. - Ga,e will not start. MPU board has no visible battery acid damage but is not giving any diagnostic flashes from the MPU. Tried test MPU in game and it ran fine, took MPU board back to shop to troubleshoot.

9/07/04 - Bally "Eight Ball Deluxe" Pinball - Service Call to Newfields NH. - Left Upper flipper was not working, replaced a broken EOS switch. Left lower flipper was weak, tightened loose screws on flipper crank. Cleaned all EOS Switches and did Marvin3m ground modification on driver board.

10/01/04 - Atari "Tempest" Video Game - Service Call to XXXXX MA. - This Tempest would run but was unlplayeble. The Video was distorted. Craracters Apeared and dissapeared irratically, and there was no audio, just a very loud Hum. The customer explained that the machine was stored in a garage for a few years and durring that time mice had made a home in it. As I inspected the game I first found that the edge connectors that connect to the game board were all coroded and even bent out of shape. Then I found that all the IC socketts on the board were rusted. Everything ells looked decent, so I took the board back to my shop to go through and put a set of edge connectors on order.

10/03/04 - Atari "Tempest" Game Boards - Customer Repair - Continued working on customers Tempest boards, replaced all IC Socketts on both boards. Tried game again, still had same symtoms. As I was changing the socketts I noticed that whenever I pulled a chip out of a sockett, the underside of the chip was "Sticky and Wet" I figured this was a gross byproduct of the animals that had made their home in the machine. I took to board outside, spayed it down with "Simple Green," then washed the board off with the garden hose. Will let board dry off for a few days and try it again.

10/12/04 - Atari "Major Havoc" Game Board - Boards would not run... no "bark" from the watchdog. Traced watchdog signals with scope and found the XXX and XXX from XXX (74LS163) were stuck low. Replaced XXX and got watchdog to "bark" but game still would not run. Inspected ROMs and found them to be out of order. Put Roms back in order, game will run but causes monitor's spot killer to turn on. Will troubleshoot more later. The correct ROM order for Major Havoc should be: (Thanks Rob in Mass for the diagram)

11/16/04 - Bally "Xenon" Pinball -Upon power up game would make a very loud humming noise, MPU would not run. Replaced C23 (12,000uF@25VDC) and C26 (XXXuF@xVDC), Did Marvin3m ground modifications, reflowed all connector solder joints on the driver board. Installed new pins in all connectors leading to driver board. Hum went away and MPU Booted fine.

11/18/04 - Williams "Hyperball" Pinball -Ball Feeder motor was jammed. took apart entire ball feed mechanisim and rebilt. Put it all back together again and tested. Feeder motor jamed again after 10 minutes of use. Removed mechanisim again, foun one ball jammed behind screw lead. Measured all balls found three that were wrong size. (all balls should be "X.XXX" three problem balls were "X.XXX") Removed wrong balls, Game has been running fine for days

11/21/04 - Bally "Twilight Zone" Pinball - Service Call to Portsmouth NH. -Customer needed dead flipper repaired, replaced broken flipper crank and adjusted bent E.O.S. switch. Flipper now worked fine.
Ran Diagnostic test, found error "Sound board fails checksum error," Inspected the sound board and found one of the ROMs were not seated in the socket all the way. re-inserted ROM correctly, error went away.

12/05/04 - Seeburg "A" Jukebox - Service Call to Nashua NH. -Jukebox would not scan, stuck playing record. Manualy tripped record reject, Mech scaned, picked record, but as soon as the tone arm touched the record it would reject it. Oiled all points outlined on Seeburg Select-o-matic oil chart (especially the Clutch assyembly) and excersised mech by continuously selecting and rejecting records. Juke selects and plays fine now.

12/09/04 - Rontronics "Coaster Express" Ride - Service Call to Pelham NH. -Customer could not get ride to move. When the machine was loaded onto their truck, some of the signal wires that were hanging at the bottom of the machine got caught on something, pulling them out for their connectors. The customer put them back as best they could, but something was still not right.
When the ride was first turned on it would just start playing the first coaster. I found that the control box was not plugged in, but the power distribution box was (the Distribution box is the box located next to the volume controls. This feeds power to the TV and DVD Player) re oriented the plugs so the distribution box plugged into the control box, then that plugged into the wall. When the ride was turned on it would then start and go into a menu screen prompting the player to chose a coaster. Unfortunatly there was still no motion.
As I checked the the other cables in the machine I found that there were two RCA Jacks plugged into vidio outs on the DVD Player. One was for "Video out" the other was "SVideo out" The cable plugged into the "SVideo was labled SVideo" The other had no lable. I Unplugged that one (Black cable, yellow plugg, no lable) into the "Center Chanle out" on the back of the DVD player and tryed the game again. This time when a coaster was selected the machine came to life, moving all around.

12/13/04 - Atari "Tempest" Video Arcade Game -Follow Up Service Call From 10/01/04- Finally brought back the newly repaied tempest boards, these were the one that had major dammage because of rodents. Before installing the boards in this machine I replaced both coroded edge connectors inside the game. I installed the boards and the game came to life. Unfortunatly, I could only get the monitor to display half of the screen, common for K6100 X-Y Monitors. I tested the chassis mounted transistors with a volt meter to make sure none were shorted to the chassis, then I cleaned and tested the tranistor mounts. After all that I still got only half the screen. I took the monitor with me to trouble shoot at home.

12/16/04 - Seeburg "STD160" Jukebox - Service Call to Gloucester MA. - Custome described the problem as "It sounds like the record is skipping, but it's really not. Ordered and installed new cartage and needles.

12/19/04 - Tempest K6100 X-Y Monitor - Removed all chassis mounted tranistors. Tested them, then reapllied heat sink compound and reinstalled. I used a small jumper wire to make the transistor mounts have a better connection. I soldered one end of the wire to the transitor lead (Where it comes out of the transistor sockett) then the other side of the wire I soldered to the corosponding connecton spot for the wires that lead to the board connector. Basically this jumper make a direct connection for the tranistor lead to the wirering. This make it a little more difficult to remove the transistor in the futer, but I feel it's worth the extra work in the future to have a more reliable connection.
Ater that I checed to make sure all the connectos were making a solid connection, including retoching all the solder connections on the defection board to make sure there were no cold solder joints.
When I tried the monitor again, I got the same problem... only half a screen. this monitor will need further troubleshooting, and posibly a Cap Kit.

12/20/04 - Seeburg "SS160" Jukebox - Service Call to Middleton MA. -Records play too slow untill jukebox warms up. Usually takes about an hour. Bad capacitor in autospeed unit. Will locate a new one, order, and install. Oiled all points on record mechanisim as outlined on Seeburg Select-o-matic oil chart.

12/20/04 - Williams "T2" Pinball - Service Call to Andover MA. -Left Flipper not working, inspected flipper assembly, everything looked good. Ckecked fuses and found F101 was blown. Replaced fuse and tried flipper. flipper worked well, but when I held the flipper up, the fuse blew again, "hold" winding of coil is bad. replaced coil (with new coil sleve) replaced fuse again, flipper worked excelent.

12/21/04 - Williams "Whirlwind" Pinball - Service Call to Merrimac MA. - Left Flipper not working, inspected flipper assembly, everything looked good. Ckecked fuses and found F101 was blown. Replaced fuse and tried flipper. Fuse imidiatly blew again. Reinspected coil and checked wiering, coil was wired in backwards (diodes wired in reverse polarity) Changed diodes on coil, wired coil correctly. Flipper works fine.

8/16/05 - Bally "Addam's Family" Pinball - Service Call to Lee HN. - Red Pop Bumper not working. Cleaned and adjusted contcats.

8/16/05 - Williams "Terminator II" Pinball - Service Call to Lee NH. - "Factory Defauts Restored" error message displayed upon power up. Replaced Batteries and reset custome requested settings.

8/16/05 - Atari "Asteroids Deluxe" Video Game - Service Call to Lee NH. - Dead game. edge connector on wireing harness very coroded. replaced connector, now getting error message from start button lamps. Tested Votage outputs from Power Supply, looked good. Took board back to shop for service.

8/28/05 - Bally "Dr. Dude" Pinball - Service Call to Gloucester MA. - Left flipper not working. Inspected flipper. Crank Link Broken. Repleced Crank.

9/15/05 - Kanomi "Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles" Video Game - K25?? Monitor Dead, intalled cap kit, inspected Flyback Transformer. Flyback had crack in it and was burned/dammaged. Installed new Flyback

10/25/05 - Gottlieb "Spider Man" Pinball - Game not comming ready.
So a few weeks ago I posted a TECH question about this Spiderman MPU that was getting the best of me. I am happy to report to those who were interested and those who offered their help that the boards ran all weekend (24 hours straight!) without resetting once. Here's what ended up being the problems causing the lock-up.
*PROM Sockets Corroded.
*Intermittent Z4 4081 CMOS
*Intermittent Trace from Z1 pin 9 to Z4 pin 1
*Out of tolerance R10 2.7M ohm Resistor
It's amazing with all those problems the board actually worked at all! As I started to look around the Reset Circuit more closely I found someone had been working in that area before. I think that's where the faulyt trace came from. Anyhow, just thought I would post my finding for the next person having troubles with a resting system 80

12/17/05 - Gottlieb "System 80 MPU" Pinball - Customer Repair - Game not comming ready. Replaced U? Rom and daughter board.

12/27/05 - Gottlieb "Raven" Pinball - Customer Repair - Power Supply Dead. Ispected board... EVERY Solder joint on the board was cold/cracked. most of the monponents could be removed without delondering them. Resoldered everything.

01/08/06 - Nintendo "Donkey Kong Jr." Video Game - Repair for Arcade Hell -Monitor (Sanyo) only had vertical Line on monitor, game played fine otherwise. Removed monitor and installed cap kit. Monitor still had vertical line. Here's where is get a little tricky, since the monitor is mounted the long way from top to bottom, it's been mounted verticaly. Meaning that even thought when the monitor is in the game you get no Horizontal Width, flipping the monitor so it sits as a normal monitor would sit we actually have a Horizontal line, not a vertical line. I re-flowed all the solder joints in the vertical section of the monitor, witch fixed it.

05/12/06 - Bally "Black Pyramid" Pinball - Service Call to Nashua HN. Right Pop Bumber is dead. Ran Coils in test mode, bumper made buzzing noise, manually pushed linkage, but the bumper would not move. Coil overheated and melted the inside so coil could not move. Removed coil and ran switch test. The switch for the pop bumber was stuck on. replaced capacior across switch. switch now registers. Replaced coil... game works great now.

05/31/06 - Electrohome G07 Monitor - Dead monitor, fuse 902 blown, installed Bob Robberts repair kit (kap kit, HOT, Flyback, Fuses) Upon power up, fuse 902 blew again. Tested XXXXX, tested good, tested Power Suplly diodes, found XXXX was blown. Replaced XXXXX, monitor powered up and looked great!

09/23/06 - Skee Ball Lane Model S - Service Call to Nashua NH. When a coin was inserted into the game, the game tune would play but not release the balls for play. The customer had called Skee Ball, who told them to check the one fuse on the CPU board. The Customer checked the fuse witch was good, so Skee Ball told them to replace the ball release solenoid. They did, but the game still didnít work. When I checked the fuse it was definitely blown, I showed the customer, who said "That's not the one they told me to check. Model S CPU's have two fuses, one on the side of the box; witch is the main power input, then one in a funny looking fuse holder on the front of the box. The customer had only checked the side one, the one Skee ball told them too. Replaced the fuse and the game worked great!

09/23/06 - Williams Aztec Pinball - Service Call to Nashua NH. Ball kept getting stuck underneath the playfield plastics. Rubber bands are no substitute for playfield rubber. Installed a rubber kit and the game played fine.

01/15/14 - Gottlieb Spiderman Pinball - Sounds not working correctly, as soon as you turn the machine on it makes a "WooopWooopWooopWooop" noise over and over. Since it was making noise I knew the amp was good as well as the sound generator, I figued something was triggering the same sound to play over and over. I unplugged the the driver board to make sure it wasn't telling the sound board to play the sounds, and the noise didn't stop. I then followed the sound data lines on the sound board, which went to a 7404 IC. After replacing the IC the sounds were back to normal.

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